Here are 4 Fall Farm Activities to get you started:
Milking supplies! But you aren’t sure what goat milking supplies you will need when it comes time to start milking your goats.
Of course, don’t forget that in addition to getting the right goat milking supplies, you will also need to learn how to milk your goat….
Ready to make the leap into the world of raising baby chicks? This can be quite intimidating at first, there are a lot of things to learn and the chicks depend on your knowledge and care to stay healthy and thrive.
Some things you might be wondering are: what does daily care look like? How long do they need a heat lamp? What kind of feed do they need? This step by step guide has got you covered.
Raising Baby Chicks successfully starts with having the correct supplies. A safe brooder, heat lamp, thermometer, and feed. You must keep their brooder temperature at 95 – 100 degrees their first week of life and decrease it 5 degrees every week after that. They also need fresh food and water daily and to be checked for any potential health issues.
Want even more information? Check out Getting Started with Chickens eCourse for video tutorials to walk you through everything you need to know.
Raising baby chicks is really not too hard. Make sure that you know how long chickens live before committing to getting chicks. Also be sure that you can have chickens where you live and that you know how many and what types you are allowed.
If you are new to chickens and need to know more about them, get familiar with chicken terminology.
After you have those bases covered you can jump right in to getting started.
A brooder is essentially a box or enclosure of any type that is sufficient to keep the chicks in.
Brooders can come in lots of shapes and sizes. You can get pre-made brooder which is super convenient as it is ready to go at purchase. However, you can’t really adjust to what size or space you have available.
Big feed troughs also work well as brooders.
2) Heat Source
Chicks cannot maintain their own body heat when newly hatched. Therefore, they will need a heat source in order to stay warm and alive.
Heat lamps, while necessary (unless you hatched chicks with a broody hen), are a major fire hazard. Always make sure it is completely secure and well attached.
You will need pine shavings to use as bedding for the brooder. Your chicks need a non-slick surface to walk and stand on. They also need something a little comfortable to lay and sleep in.
It is important to use pine and not cedar shavings as cedar could be poisonous to chickens. There are some studies that show the aroma of the acids in cedar can damage their respiratory tract, but other evidence has shown it may not be too bad for them. Either way, better safe than sorry and just stick with using the proven pine ones.
Your chicks will, of course, need a feeder and waterer. It is important to use the chick sized ones so that they can’t fit in the feeder and get injured or get in the waterer and drown.
Optional, but recommended: We always add these decorative stones to the waterer. It helps to ensure the water is not deep enough in any spots for the chicks to drown in. This is particularly helpful if you have bantam chicks which are even smaller than standard size ones and can drown more easily.
You’ll of course need some food for your chicks. There are multiple different food choices available. The main thing that is important is to get chick starter feed. You don’t want to get plain grower or layer feed because they have nutrients (such as calcium) in them that are not good for young chicks.
Sometimes you will see chick feed listed as starter/grower feed and that is fine to use for young chicks. However, if it only says grower feed then that is not appropriate for very young chicks.
The two main choices in starter feed are medicated chick feed and non-medicated chick feed. The medicated feed has, as you probably guessed, medication in it. The medication is for prevention and treatment of coccidiosis.
Medicated vs non-medicated feed is a personal choice. We always use non-medicated as we try to raise our animals naturally whenever possible.
Since you’ll be adding supplemental heat for your chicks, you need a way to tell how warm their brooder is. To do this, add a thermometer. This flat thermometer is the one we use. It is accurate, doesn’t take up much space and is easy to wipe off when the chicks inevitably poop on it.
You’ll also need chicks, duh! You might be incubating your own eggs, or buying day old chicks. No matter where you get them from, you’ll need some.
Once you have gathered your supplies you will want to get your brooder ready. Here are the step-by-step instructions to do so:
1) Place Brooder
The first thing you want to do is decide where you will be keeping your brooder. You will need an outlet for your heat source nearby. Also, as the chicks get older they will blow fluff everywhere, so near food or a common living area is not a great option.
We usually keep our brooder in the shower of our second bathroom. Easy to clean up the dust and fluff. And there is an outlet and water source nearby also.
You will also want to be sure that the room is climate controlled if possible. You will be adding a heat source, but if the room has large changes, it will be difficult to keep your brooder temperature correct.
2) Add Bedding
Next, you need to add the bedding to your brooder. To do this, you simply fill the bottom of the brooder with a few inches of the pine shavings.
3) Add Paper Towels (optional)
Newly hatched chicks sometimes are so small they have difficulty walking on the pine shavings. So, we like to add a layer of paper towels on to of the pine for their first few days to first week until they get better on their feet.
Make sure to use paper towels (which have a texture) and not anything like newspaper (which is too slick and can cause issues like splay leg).
4) Fill up their food and water
Add your chick feeders, filled with chick starter feed. And chick waterer filled with fresh water and decorative stones in the reservoir.
You will want to make sure, especially the waterer, that these are both stable and not tipping over at all otherwise they may fall over and make a mess or crush chicks.
5) Warm it up
Once everything has been added, you will set up your heat lamp or your heat plate. Make sure to get the brooder warmed up to 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the temperature is set up, you can add your chicks in.
The chicks do need some attention over the next 8 weeks or so until they are fully feathered and ready to go outside. The following are the things you’ll need to do to raise your new baby chicks.
When you first add your chicks to the brooder, be sure to dip their beaks in the water and food so that they know when to find them.
1) Monitor and Adjust Temperature
Newly hatched chicks are not able to maintain their own body temperature. Therefore, they needed added heat. As the chicks get older, they get better at regulating their temperature. Also, as the chicks get their adult feathers, their need for supplemental heat also decreases.
You should keep a thermometer in your brooder to monitor the temperature. However, also be aware of your chicks behavior as a que to whether or not the temperature is where they need it.
If chicks are panting, spread out, wings spread out then they are too hot and you need to lower the temperature. If the chicks are lethargic, head drooping and huddled together then then are too cold and you need to raise the temperature.
Heat plates and heat bulbs do not have thermostats on them to adjust the temperature. In order to increase the brooder temperature, you need to lower the bulb or plate. In order to increase the brooder temperature, you need to raise the bulb or plate.
Here are the general temperature guidelines by week for raising chicks:
|Week/age||Temperature (in Fahrenheit)|
|Week 1||95 degrees|
|Week 2||90 degrees|
|Week 3||85 degrees|
|Week 4||80 degrees|
|Week 5||75 degrees|
|Week 6||70 degrees|
|Week 7||65 degrees|
|Week 8||Move them outside as long as it is warm enough|
2) Food and Water
Make sure both items are full and kept clean. The bigger the chicks are the more mess they will make everywhere.
Pro tip: Use a small metal grate or piece of wood to place the waterer on after the chicks are a week or so old. This will help keep them from knocking it over and also help keep it clean.
3) Clean brooder
You will need to clean out the pine at least once a week. If any water spills you will want to clean that out immediately to keep them dry and healthy.
If you are raising a lot of baby chicks, you might want to consider making a more heavy duty brooder with these chick brooder plans.
4) Health Issues
You will also need to keep an eye on your chicks to make sure they are healthy.
In general, healthy chicks are bright eyed, alert, active and not puffed up. Sick or struggling chicks can appear lethargic, droopy eyed (sleepy all the time), and have their feathers, wings and fluff puffed up.
If any of your chicks is struggling, you might want to check for some of the following:
5) Moving outside
Once your chicks are fully feathered and are off supplemental heat inside, they can be moved outside to the big coop and off heat. Make sure that the outside temperature is not too cold. You will want to take time and care if you are integrating the young chicks into an established flock.
How long do baby chicks need a heat lamp?
Baby chicks typically need a heat lamp until they are about 8 weeks old and fully feathered. If they are in a climate controlled room inside, then they may be able to come off of heat a little earlier than 8 weeks.
When can baby chicks go outside to play?
Baby chicks can go outside to play for small periods of time, under supervision and if the temperature is warm enough when they are a few weeks old.
How do you know if a chick is male or female?
It can be extremely difficult to tell if a chicks is a male or female. A few ways to sex a chicken are: vent sexing, wing sexing, and coloration for autosexing breeds.
Why do baby chicks suddenly die?
Coccidiosis is one of the most common reasons that baby chicks suddenly die. However, chicks can die from a variety of different reasons from temperature issues in the brooder to pasty butt to genetic issues.
For More on Raising Chickens
One of the things we struggled with when looking at adding a flock of laying hens was how to keep them safe while still having plenty of space outside in the grass and sunshine. We have a lot of potential predators on and near our property including raccoons, skunks, coyotes, and a whole family of fox. We have been extremely lucky (thus far) and have not lost any birds to predators. I believe that our preparation to keep predators out is a big part of us not losing any birds to predators.
Although we do try to let our birds free range when possible, they do spend time in a predator proof chicken run. Although, I am not sure if you can call it a “run” exactly. Most “runs” are small wire cages that allow the birds their minimum space requirements. Our “run” is a fenced area that allows them almost 1000 square feet of space (and we are about to expand this, since we have of course integrated in new birds since building it.). In order to allow them maximal space, but still keep them safe, we took several precautions when putting the fencing up.
I suppose our journey to starting with small scale farming started several years ago in a small fishing town in sunny Florida. Even though the sun and surf were spectacular, the housing market was not one that suited us well.
Though we by no means owned a farm, I would say we still had a small herd of dogs….4 of them at that point. We were really looking to buy a house with, at the very least, a decent sized yard. Unfortunately, that was not really one of the selling points for properties in our location.
We had tossed around the idea of moving to various locales. But, I was not buying the pitch to move back to Virginia. At least not until the promise of a goat. I guess animals have always been my weakness. (I suppose a goat was not the only thing that convinced me. However, it was at least an important item on the list).
That was just about three years ago. At that point we were not actually thinking about small scale farming or homesteading. Since then we have purchased a house with a small amount of acreage and started to build out our very own small scale farm (or mini-farm as I like to call in). When we first moved in, I would look out our back window and ponder what we would ever do with that huge field…..now I start to ponder how many more things we can fit back there (now that my goat promise has been cashed in I am holding out for something else exciting. How about a mini cow, sheep, a mini horse, a wallaby even!).
We started out gardening. We try to stick with organic foods and, well, they can get quite pricey! So, what better way to save a penny or two (as well as have delicious veggies) than by starting a garden. We quickly added in a flock of 17 laying hens for farm fresh, organically fed eggs.
During the last few years we have not only discovered how very tasty homegrown and home raised food can be, but how rewarding it can be as well. Since we have so enjoyed the journey and adventure of starting our small scale farm we thought it would be fun to create a space where we can share our stories. And so, here we are 🙂
We can’t wait to start growing our mini-farm this year. We are looking to expand past supplying just ourselves with farm fresh items. In the short run, you can expect to see our Blog continually updated and expanded. We are excited to share our experiences growing the mini-farm.
By mid-year 2015, we hope to start offering products such as day old to point of lay chickens and free range, organically fed eggs. By end of year 2015, we are looking to add goat milk products from our new Nigerian Dwarf goats.
Thanks for taking the time to learn about us and how we got started with small scale farming! Please feel free to leave a comment so we can also get to know you! 🙂
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